I've got the chassis and handling down to how I like it. Just need to keep working on the graphical side of things!
oh yeah, I spent more time on it's bigger brother the offroad version... still not big though, about 1200lbs with driver and under 70hp.
oh yeah, I spent more time on it's bigger brother the offroad version... still not big though, about 1200lbs with driver and under 70hp.
Recommend maximum zoom out on the editor,or a button to reset the P view. every once in a while I get so strangely zoomed that I can never find the car again
no wheel found for rear central subobject marked as trailing arm??
I'm not sure why this is happening on my car. The trailing arm center and the Lower pivot are the same coordiantes. I have brakes that move with the wheels. What else can I do?
I'm not sure why this is happening on my car. The trailing arm center and the Lower pivot are the same coordiantes. I have brakes that move with the wheels. What else can I do?
Working on the model...
100%. LFS is the best it’s ever been!
Very fun! amazing engine sound and hilarious to drive!
Rodensa Series 1... motorcycle powereD Basic Racing cars. 2 seaters.
Using a honda NC700 powertrain, a hybrid fiberglass and steel structure, and common buggy and 4 wheeler parts I present the working protoype of the Rodensa 670...
It has 165r10 tires. a crude swing arm suspension in the rear. Is chain driven. and uses a short stroke mcpherson strut in the front. Running on Minator 10x6 wheels, this sprightly little devil needs to be driven flat out almost all the time. It also has very poor aerodynamics, and can only break 100mph in a draft. The COG height is pretty high due to the engine design and driver placement! So be gentle with the steering and heavy on the throttle.... It doesn't tip on it's side, unless you really make it mad... Like poking a small inexpensive bear with a stick... Not a great idea, but not the worst either.
I am going to try to make the model look as fun as it drives. If anyone wants to test drive it before it's complete, pm me for the files.
1;01.45 around SO1 is my best time.
EDIT:
Why Rodensa? Because rodent isn’t catchy or fancy sounding.
It has 165r10 tires. a crude swing arm suspension in the rear. Is chain driven. and uses a short stroke mcpherson strut in the front. Running on Minator 10x6 wheels, this sprightly little devil needs to be driven flat out almost all the time. It also has very poor aerodynamics, and can only break 100mph in a draft. The COG height is pretty high due to the engine design and driver placement! So be gentle with the steering and heavy on the throttle.... It doesn't tip on it's side, unless you really make it mad... Like poking a small inexpensive bear with a stick... Not a great idea, but not the worst either.
I am going to try to make the model look as fun as it drives. If anyone wants to test drive it before it's complete, pm me for the files.
1;01.45 around SO1 is my best time.
EDIT:
Why Rodensa? Because rodent isn’t catchy or fancy sounding.
Last edited by RE Amemiya, .
.5 to 7 Bar is the actual range that I use in real life. I have heard of up to about 8 bar before but that’s definitely excessive. Tires come off of beads at 8 bar.
I drove the car, it is very nice!! It feels dangerous and stable simultaneously. I think that’s accurate! Ha
Hooray it has been approved as a WIP. I would love to hear feedback about it and peoples thoughts. It really won't seem normal, but I assure you it is meant to be that way!
[edit]
Ok so I got some very negative feedback on it! I went back through it and changed some characteristics and I think it’s really improved now. While you could throw in a very flashy reverse entry, It was not holding a wide line on throttle, making it hard to connect drifts. It also had a bad under steer during critical moments. I changed the COG to be lower and more forward, changed the KPI, SAI, extended the LCA a little bit. Changed the rear camber curve to be more aggressive, helps prevent too much rotation, which was another problem! I also adjusted the engine to be a little less peaky. Now you have to clutch kick to get it to spool properly, but it is easier to drive around drifts now as you blip the throttle rapidly.
_________
Here's a tip on how to drift this style of car.
Speed up in 3rd gear, gently turn to the left as you're flooring it. The car will drift slightly to the left.... Now, crank the wheel 90* to the right and pop off the throttle. Now counter steer very fast!!!....hold the clutch in, hold the wheel max to the left... Keep the gas floored and wait. you'll be sliding very hard now, wait, wait... Then, drop the clutch and return the wheel to straight!
You'll shoot off like a rocket!
[edit]
Ok so I got some very negative feedback on it! I went back through it and changed some characteristics and I think it’s really improved now. While you could throw in a very flashy reverse entry, It was not holding a wide line on throttle, making it hard to connect drifts. It also had a bad under steer during critical moments. I changed the COG to be lower and more forward, changed the KPI, SAI, extended the LCA a little bit. Changed the rear camber curve to be more aggressive, helps prevent too much rotation, which was another problem! I also adjusted the engine to be a little less peaky. Now you have to clutch kick to get it to spool properly, but it is easier to drive around drifts now as you blip the throttle rapidly.
_________
Here's a tip on how to drift this style of car.
Speed up in 3rd gear, gently turn to the left as you're flooring it. The car will drift slightly to the left.... Now, crank the wheel 90* to the right and pop off the throttle. Now counter steer very fast!!!....hold the clutch in, hold the wheel max to the left... Keep the gas floored and wait. you'll be sliding very hard now, wait, wait... Then, drop the clutch and return the wheel to straight!
You'll shoot off like a rocket!
Last edited by RE Amemiya, .
Oh wow, People have some crazy fast cars in real life! I'll keep driving it for fun, it is a good one!
I gave the suspension a fix. Adjusted the tires, though they're still relatively small, it is a realistic "Shakotan" setup and in real life would probably be called "Meaty" in the JDM crowd. I think its pretty nice to drive, I do think the boost should hit a little sooner and a lot harder, but in reality it does feel like a mildy tuned UZ to me! It feels a touch soggy on the default setup, but I enjoy it! No doubt it could be tuned with more racey sets! But overall, a very nice mod! I love the interior too, it really adds to it. We will see if Mr. High Speed Garage will approve of the suspension soon!
Last edited by RE Amemiya, .
http://lescollinsracing.com/engine/projects-engine/lz20b-rally
Les Collins LZ20B could be a good reference
Les Collins LZ20B could be a good reference
I drove this car around a bit. I really enjoyed the default differential settings. It is an interesting car, it feels like a fiberglass shell over a roll cage from the cockpit. Maybe the car is too fast as well, but definitely has potential.
I’m laughing at the fact that we have lawn mowers and probably will have tractor pulling soon.
Real XRT Drift Car
I've redone the XRT to have a quite realistic Japanese style essence, in my opinion. Most of the work has been done to the suspension, engine and weight setup. I did tweak the body, the wheels and tires, steering wheel, driver animation, etc as well...
I've redone the rear suspension to mimic a Silvia as best I could with double a arm, and the front Mcpherson design has been tweaked heavily.
Anyone who tests this car will realize that this isn't just an XRT with extra power, it drives unlike anything I've tried in LFS thus far, in a good way.
It might feel a little weird if you haven't tried a car like this in real life but it's definitely worth figuring it out!
I do need help figuring out how to let other people try it!!
I've redone the rear suspension to mimic a Silvia as best I could with double a arm, and the front Mcpherson design has been tweaked heavily.
Anyone who tests this car will realize that this isn't just an XRT with extra power, it drives unlike anything I've tried in LFS thus far, in a good way.
It might feel a little weird if you haven't tried a car like this in real life but it's definitely worth figuring it out!
I do need help figuring out how to let other people try it!!
Last edited by RE Amemiya, .
Would it be possible to add an option for over 100% parallel steering? Maybe 105%? This is not a super common thing to use in a real car but sometimes, especially in short track drifting it is utilized. I’ve also heard of it being used on formula cars occasionally on very high speed tracks.
i have attempted to send a message!
I have talked with a rally suspension engineer in the past and he explained to me that most rally cars will have about 200mm of damper travel on a McPherson strut. It’s not uncommon to see less though, 170-180 is very common also. The WRC cars have extremely expensive setups to offset the struts and gain 220-240mm. But that is definitely not affordable. You could probably see about 220mm of total rear wheel travel and about 180-200 front wheel travel. Many many fwd rally cars use 35-50mm offset wheels. 15x6.5-7” is very common or 13x5. 175/70-15 or 165/80-13. The included angle of the strut is probably between 9-12*. So if you set the camber to 0.5* negative, the included angle to 9-12* just enough that the wheel offset doesn’t hit the strut and the scrub radius is slightly negative (inside of the Strut top to ball joint line). You will end up with a very realistic setup. The caster should probably fall between 3.5-5*. A realistic front lower control arm length, in my experience would be between about 270mm to 320mm. The rear lower control arm length would probably be no more than 400mm, that’s probably a bit longer than realistic for many cars but Subaru rear lower lateral links are about 400mm. They’re pretty much the longest of anyone.
As far as 18”. The R5’s use a 20-65-18. Approximately a 225-40-18. The smaller XFG with a 205/40/17 would probably fit alright. Keep up the hard work! Good luck!
Also it is hard without helper springs, but gravel setups don’t tend to use a helper spring. They over damp the suspension to absorb the bumps, and tend to run lighter springs with preload. 5-6kg for a dirt setup is probably the max. With lots more compression damping than a tarmac setup.
As far as 18”. The R5’s use a 20-65-18. Approximately a 225-40-18. The smaller XFG with a 205/40/17 would probably fit alright. Keep up the hard work! Good luck!
Also it is hard without helper springs, but gravel setups don’t tend to use a helper spring. They over damp the suspension to absorb the bumps, and tend to run lighter springs with preload. 5-6kg for a dirt setup is probably the max. With lots more compression damping than a tarmac setup.
That’s a great looking model Vladimir! I’m so excited for your work
My 3 year old daughter who is learning to drive on LFS with a sim rig will absolutely love this burger. Hopefully there will be a simple 2 cylinder 20-30HP version so she can drive it easily at WOT! (3 year olds have a hard time modulating wheel spin!) she loves to drive around Aston and Blackwood X maps looking for “secrets”
PM me, I have worked on lots of drift cars in real life, including the JZX81. I’m sure I can help you sort out the suspension for it
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